Top Tips for Pruning Flowering Dogwood the Right Way

So, you want to get into pruning flowering dogwood trees, huh? It’s not too hard, but there are definitely some things you should know to keep your tree healthy and looking good. These beautiful trees are pretty popular, especially for home gardens, because they don’t get super huge, usually topping out around 25 feet. They’re generally pretty low-maintenance, but timing your cuts right is a big deal, since they can bleed a lot of sap if you prune them at the wrong time. This guide will walk you through the basics of trimming your dogwood the right way.

Key Takeaways

• Always prune flowering dogwood trees when they’re dormant, usually in late fall or winter, to avoid sap bleed and potential disease issues.
• Use sharp, clean tools like secateurs for smaller branches and a pruning saw for thicker ones to make clean cuts.
• Focus on removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches first, along with any crossing or inward-growing branches that can cause problems.
• Avoid cutting off the top of the tree (topping) and don’t remove more than 15-20% of the living canopy in a single year.
• Young dogwood trees need minimal pruning, mainly just to establish a good shape and remove any weak or competing branches.

Why Prune Flowering Dogwood?

Okay, so you’re probably wondering why bother pruning flowering dogwood in the first place. I mean, they look pretty good on their own, right? Well, there are several good reasons to get out there with your pruning shears. It’s not just about aesthetics, though that’s part of it.

• Health: Removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches is crucial. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t leave a bad cut untreated, would you? Same goes for your tree. Getting rid of the bad stuff prevents it from spreading and keeps the whole tree healthier.
• Shape and Size: Dogwoods are naturally pretty, but sometimes they can get a little unruly. Pruning helps maintain a pleasing shape and keeps the tree from outgrowing its space, especially if it’s near your house or power lines.
• Air Circulation: A dense canopy can trap moisture and create a breeding ground for pests and diseases. Thinning it out improves air circulation, which helps prevent problems.

Honestly, I used to think pruning was just for show, but after seeing how much healthier and happier my dogwood is after a good trim, I’m a total convert. It’s like giving it a spa day, but with loppers.

Basically, pruning flowering dogwood is about keeping your tree healthy, happy, and looking its best. It’s an investment in the long-term well-being of your tree, and it’s not as scary as it sounds. Trust me, once you get the hang of it, you’ll wonder why you didn’t start sooner.

Best Time to Prune Dogwood

Okay, so you’re thinking about when to prune flowering dogwood? Timing is actually pretty important. Dogwoods are known to “bleed” sap if you prune them at the wrong time, which isn’t necessarily fatal, but it can stress the tree and make it more vulnerable to pests and diseases.

The ideal time to prune is during the dormant season – late fall, winter, or very early spring – before new growth starts. This minimizes sap loss and reduces the risk of infection. Think of it like this: the tree is asleep, so it won’t react as strongly to being cut.

Pruning at the right time helps the tree heal faster and puts less stress on it overall. It’s a simple thing that can make a big difference in the long run.

Avoid pruning in the spring when the tree is actively growing and preparing to bloom. You don’t want to accidentally remove flower buds, and you don’t want to cause excessive sap bleeding. Plus, the tree is putting all its energy into new growth at that time, so it won’t heal as quickly.

If you miss the dormant season window, don’t panic. You can still do some light pruning in the summer to remove dead or damaged branches, but be extra careful not to overdo it. And avoid any major pruning until the dormant season rolls around again. Knowing when to trim flowering dogwood trees is half the battle.

Avoid Spring Pruning

Okay, so you’re probably thinking, “Spring is when everything’s growing, so it’s the perfect time to prune!” Well, with flowering dogwood, that’s not quite right. Spring is one of the worst times to grab those pruning tips and start hacking away. Here’s why:

• Sap Flow: Dogwoods are “bleeders.” This means they release a lot of sap when pruned, especially in the spring. This sap loss can weaken the tree and make it more susceptible to pests and diseases. It’s like giving an open invitation to every bug and fungus in the neighborhood.
• Flowering Disruption: Dogwoods bloom in the spring, right? If you prune then, you’re likely cutting off flower buds. No one wants fewer flowers! You’ll be sacrificing this year’s beautiful display for… well, nothing.
• Increased Disease Risk: Spring is often a wet season, and fresh cuts on a tree are vulnerable to fungal infections. Pruning in spring increases the chance of your dogwood catching something nasty.

Think of it this way: spring is when your dogwood is putting all its energy into growing and flowering. Pruning, then, is like interrupting a marathon runner to give them a haircut. It’s just bad timing.

So, when should you prune? We’ll get to that, but for now, just remember: hands off the dogwood in spring. Wait for the right time, and your tree will thank you with healthy growth and abundant blooms.

Essential Tools for Pruning Dogwood

Okay, so you’re ready to get your hands dirty and prune that dogwood. Before you start hacking away, let’s talk tools. Having the right equipment not only makes the job easier but also ensures you’re not damaging the tree in the process. Trust me, using dull or inappropriate tools is a recipe for disaster. You might end up with ragged cuts that invite disease. Let’s get into what you’ll need.

Hand Pruners (Secateurs)

For smaller branches, say up to about ¾ inch in diameter, a good pair of hand pruners is your best friend. Bypass pruners are generally preferred over anvil pruners because they make cleaner cuts. Anvil pruners tend to crush the stem, which isn’t ideal. Look for pruners with comfortable grips and a smooth cutting action. Felco is a popular brand, but there are plenty of other good options out there. Just make sure they’re sharp! Dull blades are more dangerous and less effective.

Loppers

When you encounter branches that are too thick for hand pruners, it’s time to bring out the loppers. These are long-handled pruners, giving you more leverage for cutting thicker branches, usually up to 1½ to 2 inches in diameter. Again, bypass loppers are the way to go. The extra reach is super helpful for getting into the canopy without having to climb all over the tree. I’ve found loppers to be invaluable for reaching those awkward, inward-growing branches.

Pruning Saw

For anything thicker than what loppers can handle, you’ll need a pruning saw. These saws are designed specifically for cutting branches, with blades that are aggressive enough to slice through wood quickly and efficiently. A folding pruning saw is a great option because it’s easy to carry around, and the blade is protected when not in use. Make sure the pruning saw you choose has a comfortable handle and a blade that’s easy to replace.

Gloves

Don’t forget about protecting your hands! A good pair of gardening gloves is essential for any pruning job. They’ll protect you from thorns, rough bark, and potential cuts. Look for gloves that fit well and allow you to maintain a good grip on your tools. Leather gloves are durable and offer good protection, but synthetic gloves can be more breathable and flexible.

Eye Protection

This is a big one that people often overlook. Debris can fly when you’re pruning, and the last thing you want is a twig in your eye. Safety glasses or goggles are a must. They’re cheap and can save you a trip to the emergency room. I always keep a pair in my gardening kit.

It’s also a good idea to have a bucket or tarp handy to collect the branches as you prune. This makes cleanup much easier and prevents you from having to bend over constantly. Plus, it’s a good way to keep track of how much you’re pruning, so you don’t accidentally overdo it.

Ladder (If Necessary)

If you need to reach higher branches, use a sturdy ladder. Make sure the ladder is placed on a level surface and that you have someone spotting you. Never overreach when you’re on a ladder. It’s better to reposition the ladder than to risk falling. If the tree is too tall to safely prune from a ladder, it’s best to call in a professional arborist. They have the equipment and expertise to handle large trees safely.

Disinfectant

It’s a good practice to disinfect your pruning tools before and after each use. This helps prevent the spread of disease. You can use a simple solution of bleach and water (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) or rubbing alcohol. Just dip the blades in the solution and let them air dry. This small step can make a big difference in the health of your tree.

Having these tools on hand will make your dogwood pruning experience much smoother and more effective. Remember to keep your tools sharp and clean, and always prioritize safety. Happy pruning!

Assessing Tree Structure

Okay, before you even think about cutting, you gotta look at your dogwood. I mean, look at it. Don’t just grab your pruning shears and go to town. Take a walk around the whole tree, and observe it from different angles. What you’re trying to do is understand its current state and figure out what needs to be done to improve its health and shape.

• Overall Shape: Is it lopsided? Too dense? Does it look natural, or like something went wrong along the way?
• Branching Pattern: How are the branches arranged? Are there any that are weaker or growing in the wrong direction?
• Signs of Damage or Disease: Obvious stuff like dead branches, but also look for discoloration, unusual growths, or insect activity.

Think of it like this: you’re a tree doctor. You wouldn’t operate without an examination, right? The same goes for pruning. A little time spent assessing the tree’s structure can save you a lot of trouble (and the tree a lot of stress) down the road.

It’s also worth considering the tree’s age. A young dogwood will have different needs than a mature one. Young trees might need more shaping to establish a strong framework, while older trees might need more attention to removing deadwood and thinning out the canopy. You’re trying to figure out what the tree needs to thrive, and then use your pruning skills to help it get there.

How to Remove Deadwood Cleanly

Okay, so you’ve spotted some deadwood on your dogwood. It happens! Don’t panic. Removing it properly is key to keeping your tree healthy and looking good. The goal is to make clean cuts that promote healing and prevent disease from taking hold.

First things first, make sure you have sharp tools. Dull blades can tear the bark and leave ragged edges, which are just asking for trouble. A good pair of pruning shears or a small pruning saw should do the trick, depending on the size of the branch.

Here’s a simple step-by-step:

1. Identify the deadwood: Obvious, right? But make sure it’s truly dead. Brittle, dry, and lacking any signs of life are good indicators.
2. Make the first cut: If it’s a larger branch (over an inch or so in diameter), use the three-cut method to avoid tearing the bark. This involves making an undercut a few inches from the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk), then a second cut from above, further out than the first. This removes the bulk of the branch. Finally, make the third cut right at the branch collar.
3. Make the final cut: For smaller branches, you can usually get away with a single, clean cut right at the branch collar. Angle the cut slightly to match the branch’s natural growth pattern.
4. Clean up: Remove any loose bark or debris from around the cut. There’s no need to use pruning sealant; in fact, it can sometimes trap moisture and promote rot. Just let the tree heal naturally.

Removing deadwood isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about preventing pests and diseases from spreading to healthy parts of the tree. Think of it as giving your dogwood a little TLC to help it thrive.

And remember, it’s generally best to prune when the tree is dormant, but deadwood can be removed any time of year. Just get it done.

Thinning the Canopy

Okay, so you’ve got your tools, you’ve assessed the tree, and you’ve taken care of the deadwood. Now it’s time to think about thinning the canopy. This is where you start to improve airflow and light penetration, which are super important for a healthy dogwood.

Thinning the canopy isn’t just about hacking away at branches. It’s about making smart choices to benefit the tree in the long run. The goal is to reduce density without sacrificing the tree’s natural shape.

Here’s how I usually approach it:

• Start from the inside out. Focus on removing branches that are growing towards the center of the tree. These tend to block light and air.
• Remove some of the smaller branchlets. Don’t go overboard, just enough to open things up a bit.
• Step back and take a look. It’s easy to get carried away, so pause frequently to assess your progress.

Thinning the canopy helps prevent diseases and encourages better flowering. Think of it as giving your dogwood tree a little breathing room. It’s like decluttering your house – a little bit of space can make a big difference.

It’s also worth remembering that dogwoods don’t usually need heavy pruning. A light touch is often best. You’re aiming for subtle improvements, not a drastic makeover. If you’re unsure, it’s always better to prune less rather than more. You can always go back and remove more later, but you can’t un-prune a branch!

Eliminating Crossing & Inward‑Growing Branches for Better Form

Okay, so you’ve got your dogwood, and you’re ready to make it look its best. One of the most important things you can do is get rid of branches that are rubbing against each other or growing towards the center of the tree. Trust me, it makes a huge difference.

• Why is this important? Well, crossing branches can create wounds as they rub together, opening the door for diseases and pests. Inward-growing branches just make the tree crowded and block sunlight and air circulation.
• Think of it like this: you want your tree to have good “bones.” Removing these problem branches helps define the tree’s natural shape and encourages healthy growth.
• It’s also about aesthetics. A tree free of tangled branches just looks cleaner and more appealing.

I remember the first time I pruned a dogwood. I was so nervous about cutting too much, but once I started removing those crossing branches, the tree just opened up. It was like it could finally breathe. It does make a difference in the overall health and appearance of the tree.

Here’s how I usually tackle it:

1. Start by stepping back and really looking at the tree. Identify any branches that are touching or growing inward.
2. Use your pruning tips to make clean cuts just outside the branch collar (that slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk). Avoid flush cuts.
3. Don’t be afraid to remove a few branches. It’s better to take out too little than too much. You can always prune more later if needed.

It’s all about creating a nice, open structure that allows sunlight and air to reach all parts of the tree. This will help your dogwood stay healthy and look its best. Remember to use sterile shears to prevent the spread of disease.

Light Shaping and Size Control

Okay, so you’ve taken care of the deadwood, thinned the canopy, and dealt with those pesky crossing branches. Now comes the fun part: shaping your dogwood and keeping it the size you want. This is where you get to be a bit of an artist, sculpting your tree to fit your vision and your yard.

Pruning for light and size isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about the health of the tree. A well-shaped tree with good light penetration will be more vigorous and produce more blooms. Plus, keeping it the right size prevents it from overcrowding other plants or becoming a nuisance.

Here’s the deal. I’ve got this dogwood in my backyard that was getting way too big. It was blocking sunlight from my vegetable garden, and honestly, it just looked a little wild. So, I decided to take matters into my own hands. It was a bit intimidating at first, but with a little planning, it turned out great. Now, the tree looks better, my veggies are happier, and I feel like a pruning pro (sort of).

• Visualize the Shape: Before you even pick up your pruners, take a good look at your tree. Imagine the shape you want it to be. Are you going for a more rounded form, or something more upright and airy? Having a clear picture in your mind will guide your cuts.
• Start Small: Don’t try to reshape the entire tree in one go. Focus on making small, incremental changes. You can always remove more later, but you can’t put branches back on.
• Maintain Natural Form: Dogwoods have a naturally beautiful shape, so try to work with that rather than against it. Avoid harsh, unnatural cuts that can make the tree look awkward.
• Consider the Surroundings: Think about how the tree fits into your overall landscape. Does it need to be shorter to avoid blocking views? Does it need to be narrower to allow for more space around it? Planting Southern Magnolia seed pods can add diversity to your landscape.

Remember, pruning is a marathon, not a sprint. It’s better to make small adjustments over time than to try to completely reshape the tree all at once. This approach is less stressful for the tree and gives you more control over the final result.

I found that stepping back frequently during the pruning process helped me see the overall shape and make sure I was on the right track. Don’t be afraid to take a break and come back to it with fresh eyes. And most importantly, have fun with it. Pruning can be a rewarding experience that helps you connect with your trees and create a beautiful landscape.

Special Pruning Considerations for Young Dogwood Trees

Young dogwood trees need a slightly different approach than mature ones. It’s all about setting them up for long-term health and a pleasing shape. Think of it as guiding their growth, not drastically changing it. You’re essentially training them to become strong, well-structured trees in the future.

One of the biggest things to keep in mind is that less is more when it comes to pruning young dogwoods. You don’t want to shock the tree or stunt its growth. Focus on the essentials, and let nature do its thing.

Here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Prioritize structural integrity: Look for any branches that are growing too close together or are likely to rub against each other as they mature. Remove one of them to prevent future problems. This is a good time to establish a strong central leader, if your dogwood has one.
• Address any damage early: If you notice any broken or damaged branches, take care of them right away. This will prevent disease and encourage healthy growth. Use clean, sharp pruning tips to make the cuts.
• Be patient: Young trees need time to develop. Don’t try to force them into a particular shape too quickly. A little bit of pruning each year is better than a major overhaul every few years.

Think of pruning young dogwoods as an investment in their future. By taking the time to shape them properly now, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful, healthy trees for years to come. It’s about creating a strong foundation, not achieving perfection overnight.

Also, remember that young trees are more susceptible to stress than mature ones. So, avoid pruning during extreme weather conditions, such as very hot or very cold periods. Spring or late winter is generally the best time to prune, but always check your local climate and the specific needs of your dogwood variety.

Avoid Common Pruning Mistakes

Okay, so you’re ready to get out there and prune your flowering dogwood. Awesome! But before you start hacking away, let’s talk about some common pitfalls. Trust me, a little knowledge can save you a lot of heartache (and a wonky-looking tree) down the road.

Over-Pruning

This is a big one. It’s easy to get carried away, especially if you’re trying to drastically change the shape or size of your tree. Remember, dogwoods don’t respond well to heavy pruning. A good rule of thumb is to never remove more than 10-15% of the canopy in a single year. Think of it like a haircut – a little trim is fine, but a buzz cut can be traumatic. Over-pruning can stress the tree, making it more susceptible to pests and diseases. Plus, it can stimulate excessive growth of water sprouts, which are weak and unsightly.

Tree Topping

Seriously, just don’t do it. Tree topping is when you indiscriminately cut off the tops of branches, leaving stubs. It’s terrible for the tree’s health and appearance. It leads to weak growth, decay, and an unnatural shape. Instead of topping, focus on thinning out the canopy and selectively removing branches to improve structure and light penetration.

Flush Cuts

When removing a branch, it’s tempting to cut it flush with the trunk. But this damages the branch collar, which is the swollen area at the base of the branch. The branch collar contains cells that help the wound heal properly. Cutting into it prevents the tree from sealing off the wound, leaving it vulnerable to decay and pests. Always make your cuts just outside the branch collar, leaving a small stub.

Dull or Dirty Tools

Using dull pruning shears is like trying to cut a tomato with a butter knife – it’s messy and inefficient. Dull tools crush and tear the branches, making them more susceptible to disease. Always use sharp, clean tools. Disinfect your pruning tools before and after each use to prevent the spread of diseases. A simple solution of bleach and water works well.

Ignoring the Tree’s Natural Shape

Every tree has its unique form. Trying to force a dogwood into a shape that it doesn’t naturally want to grow into is a recipe for disaster. Work with the tree’s natural growth habit, rather than against it. Focus on enhancing its existing shape and structure, rather than trying to create something completely different.

Pruning is a skill that improves with practice. Don’t be afraid to experiment, but always err on the side of caution. It’s better to prune too little than too much. And if you’re ever unsure, consult with a certified arborist. They can provide expert advice and help you avoid costly mistakes.

Pruning at the Wrong Time

As we discussed earlier, timing is crucial when pruning flowering dogwoods. Avoid pruning in the spring, as this is when the tree is actively growing and flowering. The best time to prune is in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. This allows the tree to heal quickly and reduces the risk of disease.

Here’s a quick recap of what not to do:

• Don’t remove more than 10-15% of the canopy per year.
• Don’t top the tree.
• Don’t make flush cuts.
• Don’t use dull or dirty tools.
• Don’t ignore the tree’s natural shape.
• Don’t prune in the spring.

Post‑Pruning Care

So, you’ve pruned your flowering dogwood. Now what? It’s not just about making the cuts; it’s about ensuring the tree recovers well and thrives. Here’s what you need to do after pruning.

Watering

Water deeply after pruning, especially if the weather is dry. This helps the tree recover from the stress of being pruned. Think of it as giving your dogwood a big drink after a workout. Don’t overdo it, though; soggy soil can lead to root rot. Just make sure the soil is moist a few inches down.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing can give your dogwood a boost, but don’t go overboard. A light application of a balanced fertilizer in the spring can help. I usually use a 10-10-10 fertilizer, but always follow the instructions on the label. Avoid fertilizing late in the season, as this can encourage new growth that won’t harden off before winter.

Mulching

Mulch is your friend! A 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the tree helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. I like using wood chips or shredded bark. It just looks nice and breaks down slowly, feeding the soil as it decomposes.

Monitoring for Pests and Diseases

After pruning, keep a close eye on your dogwood for any signs of pests or diseases. Pruning can sometimes create entry points for pathogens. Look for things like leaf spots, wilting, or unusual growths. If you spot something, address it quickly with appropriate treatments. Early detection is key to preventing serious problems. Consider consulting with a local arborist or extension office for advice on specific issues in your area.

Post-pruning care is all about supporting the tree’s natural healing processes. It’s not about doing a ton of extra work, but rather providing the right conditions for the dogwood to recover and flourish. Think of it as giving your tree a little TLC after a haircut.

Protecting from Sunscald

Newly exposed branches can be susceptible to sunscald, especially in winter. If you’ve done a lot of pruning, consider wrapping the trunk and larger branches with tree wrap to protect them from the sun. This is especially important for young trees with thin bark. Remove the wrap in the spring to prevent moisture buildup and potential problems.

Follow-Up Pruning

Keep an eye on the tree over the next few months. You might need to do some minor follow-up pruning to remove any new growth that’s crossing or rubbing. This is also a good time to correct any mistakes you might have made during the initial pruning. Don’t be afraid to make small adjustments as needed. It’s all part of the learning process.

Long‑Term Pruning Plan

Okay, so you’ve pruned your flowering dogwood. Now what? It’s not a one-and-done deal. Think of it more like a long-term relationship. You need a plan to keep things looking good and the tree healthy for years to come. Here’s how to approach it.

Regular Check-Ups

Make it a habit to inspect your dogwood at least once a year, preferably in late winter or early spring, before the buds swell. Look for signs of disease, pests, or structural issues. Early detection is key to preventing bigger problems down the road. I usually do this while I’m assessing tree structure for other pruning needs. It’s like a yearly physical for your tree.

Gradual Pruning

Avoid the urge to drastically prune your dogwood all at once. It’s better to do a little bit each year. This reduces stress on the tree and allows it to recover more easily. Remember, dogwoods don’t like heavy pruning. Aim to remove no more than 10-15% of the canopy in any given year. This approach helps maintain the tree’s natural shape and flowering potential.

Addressing Specific Issues

Over time, you might notice new problems arising, such as crossing branches, water sprouts, or the development of a dense canopy. Deal with these issues as they appear, rather than letting them accumulate. This targeted approach keeps the tree in good shape without unnecessary stress. For example, if you see dying branches, remove them promptly to prevent disease spread.

Rejuvenation Pruning (If Necessary)

In some cases, an older or neglected dogwood might benefit from rejuvenation pruning. This involves cutting the tree back more severely to encourage new growth. However, this should only be done as a last resort, as it can be quite stressful for the tree. If you’re considering this, it’s best to consult with a certified arborist to determine if it’s the right approach and how to do it properly.

Long-term pruning isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about ensuring the health and longevity of your flowering dogwood. By following a consistent plan, you can keep your tree thriving for many years to come. It’s an investment in the future beauty of your landscape.

Maintaining Size and Shape

If you want to keep your dogwood at a certain size or shape, regular pruning is essential. Focus on removing growth that extends beyond your desired boundaries. Be mindful of the tree’s natural form and avoid creating an unnatural or overly manicured appearance. The goal is to enhance the tree’s beauty, not to force it into an artificial mold. Consider thinning cuts to maintain a balanced canopy.

Monitoring for Disease and Pests

Keep an eye out for common dogwood diseases and pests, such as dogwood anthracnose, powdery mildew, and borers. If you spot any signs of trouble, take action promptly to prevent the problem from spreading. This might involve pruning out affected branches, applying appropriate treatments, or consulting with a tree care professional. Early intervention can save your tree from serious damage.

Want to keep your plants looking great for years? Our long-term pruning guide shows you how. Learn simple tricks to help your plants grow strong and healthy. For easier tips, check out our full guide on our website!

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to prune my dogwood tree?

You don’t always need to prune a dogwood tree. The main reasons to do it are to get rid of branches that are dead, broken, or sick. Pruning can also help open up the tree’s leaves, letting more air flow through. This can stop bugs and diseases from happening. Sometimes, you might also trim a dogwood to make it smaller.

When is the best time to prune a dogwood tree?

Dogwood trees can ‘bleed’ sap if you cut them when they’re actively growing in spring and summer. This sap isn’t usually harmful, but it can make the tree open to diseases or bug problems. So, the best time to prune your dogwood is when it’s resting, like in late fall or winter, or very early spring before new leaves start to show.

Should I put a sealer on the cuts after pruning?

When you cut a branch, you don’t need to put anything on the cut. Just let the tree heal itself naturally. It’s pretty good at it.

How do I shape my dogwood tree by pruning?

To shape a dogwood, first trim any branches that hang too low. Also, cut out any branches that are rubbing against each other. Then, step back and look at the tree. See if there are other branches you can remove to make the tree’s top more open. But remember, never cut the main trunk of the dogwood, which is called the leader.

Can I cut off the very top of my dogwood tree?

It’s not a good idea to cut off the top of a dogwood tree. This can cause a lot of weak, messy new growth to sprout up, which isn’t good for the tree’s health or looks.

How much should I prune my dogwood tree at once?

When pruning, try not to cut more than 15% to 20% of the tree’s living branches in one year. Cutting too much can stress the tree and make it unhealthy.

What is ‘rejuvenation pruning’ for a dogwood?

If you have a very old or unhealthy dogwood, or one that’s just too big, you can try cutting it all the way down to the ground. New shoots should grow from the roots, giving you a smaller, hopefully healthier tree.

What tools should I use for pruning dogwood?

Always use sharp and clean tools. For smaller branches, good hand pruners work well. For thicker branches, a pruning saw is better. Avoid using loppers on thicker branches, as they can crush the wood and cause damage.